Other names: 1,2-Dihydroxyhexane, DL-Hexane-1,2-Diol

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Solvent, synthetic preservative, humectant, emollient

Although its main job as a solvent is to aid in dissolving other substances, 1,2-Hexanediol has multiple functions. It will work as a synthetic preservative and is known to boost antimicrobial properties of other preservatives. As a humectant, it will bring moisture from the environment into the skin layers.

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Skin conditioning agent

Adenosin is a compound present in our body which restores and soothes skin. It acts as a cell-signal to aid with prevention of wrinkles by increasing production of collagen to keep skin firm and elastic.  

Other name/s: Aluminum Dihydroxy Allantoinate

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Skin conditioning and protectant

Allantoin occurs naturally in the body that heals skin and acts as an emollient to moisturise skin. Allantoin is commonly produced synthetically for use in skincare.

Other name/s: Alpa Hydroxy Acidsc

AHAs are water-soluble acids that are typically naturally derived from fruits. As they are water-soluble, AHAs are great for exfoliating the skin cells on the surface of the skin, but do not reach deep into the pores.

Functions: exfoliating. Great for acne prone skin.

Ampoules are similar to essences and serums but they deliver nutrients and active ingredients to your skin at an even higher dose. They are usually made out of minimal ingredients and are made to tackle one specific skin concern. Best used every few days or for a finite amount of time, it can create drastic results in a short amount of time.

Other name/s: Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Antioxidant, fragrance ingredient, pH adjuster, skin conditioning

Avoid using with benzoyl peroxide, other acids, or retinol.

Ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant and the most stable and effective form of vitamin C used in skincare products. It is water soluble and is part of a complex that protects the skin from oxidative stress. Lower percentages of ascorbic acid are best for those who want the skin brightening effects without fear of irritation, whereas skin that can tolerate higher percentages of ascorbic acid will experience faster brightening of skin.

Other name/s: Docosonal

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Binder, Emulsion stabiliser, viscosity increasing agent

Behenyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol that thickens formulations and makes them more resistant to visible light. As an emollient, it soothes and softens skin while performing a protective layer to prevent transepidermal water loss.

Other name/s: Docosonal

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Binder, Emulsion stabiliser, viscosity increasing agent

Behenyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol that thickens formulations and makes them more resistant to visible light. As an emollient, it soothes and softens skin while performing a protective layer to prevent transepidermal water loss.

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Bulking agent, skin conditioning agent

Beta-glucans are a group of sugars that naturally occur in the cell walls of fungi, yeasts, oats and bacteria. It is commonly used for heart conditions and high cholesterol, but in skincare it acts as a humectant to draw water into the top layers of the skin. It is also known to decrease redness and repair damaged and irritated skin

Functions: Exfoliating. Good for acne prone skin.

BHAs are oil-soluble acids that penetrate the deeper layers of the skin to clear out pores and loosen bonds between the dead skin cells. It is best used for oily and acne prone skin that's caused by dirt and buildup of oil in the skin.

Other name/s: Trimethylglycine

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Humectant, skin conditioning, viscosity controlling

Betaine is originally naturally derived from sugar beet (Beta vulgaris) and it hydrates skin while also having anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects.  

WG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Emulsion stabiliser, viscosity increasing agent

Carbomers are a group of large polymers derived from acrylic acid that are used to thicken and stabilise skincare products. 

Other name/s: Gotu Kola, Brahmi, Asiatic pennywort, tiger grass

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: Antioxidant, fragrance ingredient, pH adjuster, skin conditioning

Avoid using with benzoyl peroxide, other acids, or retinol.

Centella asiatica contains active compounds that have potent antioxidant properties that repair the skin barrier. These active compounds are Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassoside, and Madasiatic acid. It increases collagen production and hyaluronic acid in the skin, and can be combined with Vitamin C to improve elasticity and hydration of skin. 

Cleansers are commonly used as the most basic step of the skincare routine and help you wash a day of dirt away, unclog pores and reduce excess sebum. It is ideal for people who are in humid, hot or polluted environments, more oily skin types, use suncreen or more stubborn heavy makeup. It's best to use a gentle cleanser as not to irritate or dry out skin, and even more so if the double cleansing method is used.

Double Cleansing is the best way to clean your face. First step is to clean with oil cleanser. In this step, you will remove make-up and SPF. The second step you will clean with water cleanser to remove the dirt.

Essences (as known in Korea) or Lotions (as known in Japan) is an extra step of hydration after toners that help to further prime the skin with the addition of many micronutrients and antioxidants. They have a lower molecular weight which means they penetrate more deeply into the skin to provide that extra layer of hydration. Essences are lower concentrations of active ingredients and are meant to prep the skin for serums and ampoules.

Other name/s: glycerol, glycerine

EWG rating: 1-2 (Low hazard - depends on usage) Learn more

Functions: Denaturant, fragrance ingredient, humectant, skin conditioning agent, skin protectant, viscosity decreasing agent

Glycerin is a viscous liquid that acts as a humectant to draw in water to the outer layer of the skin. It's important to hydrate the lower layers of the skin while using glycerin as it will draw water to the top layers of the skin, even if the highest moisture comes from the lower layers of the skin.

Other name/s: azulon, 1,4-dimethyl-7-isopropylazulene

EWG rating: 1-4 (Low hazard - depends on usage) Learn more

Functions: colourant, fragrance ingredient, antimicrobial

Guaiazulene is a non-irritating colourant that can bring a dark violet or blue colour to skincare formulas. It is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory properties to soothe skin and scalp.

Humectant are hygroscopic (water loving) ingredients that draw water from the environment or the deeper layers of the skin into the top layer of the skin (stratum corneum).  

Other name/s: nicotinamide

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: skin conditioning

Niacinamide is a form of vitmain B3 which can be produced from niacin when the body reaches full saturation of niacin. It is known to brighten and repair damaged skin although there has been no significant studies to support this evidence.

Other name/s: pro-vitamin B5

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: skin conditioning

Panthenol is the alcohol form of vitamin B5 which when applied to skin, rapidly converts to vitamin B5. Vitamin B5's skin conditioning properties help to hydrate skin and works as a humectant to draw moisture to the top layer.

Other name/s: 2-Hydroxyethyl Phenyl Ether, 2-Phenoxy-Ethanol, 2-Phenoxyethanol, 2-Phenoxethyl Alcohol, Ethanol, 2-Phenoxy-Ethanol, 2Phonexy, Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether, Phenoxyethanol, Phonxytol

EWG rating: 2-4 (Depends on usage) Learn more

Functions: preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria from producing in skincare products. It is internationally approved to be used at a concentration of up to 1% in skincare products and is often used in lower amounts.

When it comes to your skincare routine, serums are the main course. The steps before - Cleansing, toner, essence - all lead up to this potent dose of active ingredients. The effect really depends on the serum you choose and these products can make or break your skin. Most serums are water based (although some facial oils are marketed as serums) and contain little fluid. Similar to essences, they are low molecular weight and are able to penetrate deeply into the skin, but don't have moisturising ingredients to lock them into the skin barrier so moisturising is an import step after serum. They are also the best product for anti-ageing benefits. Those with sensitive skin need to integrate this into their skin routine with care as the high concentrations of active ingredients may irritate skin.

EWG rating: 1 (Low hazard) Learn more

Functions: skin conditioning

Snail secretion filtrate is an ingredient loved by Korean brands and is known for its ability to repair and hydrate damaged skin. Snail secretion filtrate is made up of many ingredients that are beneficial for the skin including proteins, hyaluronic acid, antimicrobials, peptides, elastin, glycol acid and other antioxidants.

Other name/s: hyaluronate sodium, hyaluronic acid sodium, hyaluronic acid sodium salt, hyalurone sodium

EWG rating: 2-4 (Depends on usage) Learn more

Functions: preservative

Sodium hyaluronate functions to hydrate and revitalise dry skin, and improves firmness of the skin. It is a derivative of hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight to help it penetrate deep into the underlying layers of the skin.